Convert your Volvo Redblock for the use with Bio-Ethanol


Since i decided that i don't want to pay more and more Euro's to the oil-lobby, i searched for alternative fuels. During my research i found, that ethanol will be a alternative fuel for me. The reason for this was because my old Volvo can run ethanol without doing expensive rebuilds on the engine hardware.

The second reason why i prefer ethanol is, that ethanol has a much better environmental audit then other alternative fuels like e.g. Autogas, which is a fall-out product by the gasoline production. Ethanol is based on crop, it is so to say carbon-dioxide-neutral because the carbon-dioxide the car is emitting is just as much as the crop has taken from the athmosphere during growing.

Let's have a look to the converting procedure. It's not really complicated if you have some experiences with car repairs.

How to convert a N/A Volvo B230F/FB/FD/G/B234F?

Way1: Install a set of EV1 or EV6 long type; high impedance fuel injectors with 250-320cc/min.
Way2: Install a modified chip. I have chips with modified injector values to match E85 needs.
Way3: Install Piggy-back device.

How to convert a Volvo Turbo B230FT/GT?

Install a set of high impedance injectors: 440cc/min, Bosch 0280 150 558; high impedance; EV1
421cc/min, Bosch 0280 156 280; high impedance; EV6 long (310g/min heptan as specified by Bosch Germany!)
Install a modified chip of Mine, but this will limit you to stock boost!

What is the best way to convert a engine for the use of Bio-Ethanol E85?

I prefer the injector swap versus any kind of ethanol device because the injector swap is a 'naturally conversion' which allows the ECU to control the injectors as always. I don't want to say that a conversion with a ethanol box will not work, i only want to draw your attention to the fact that such a device foul the ECU and eliminates the possibility to improve power. The disadvantage of the injector conversion is the fact, that in most cases you won't be able to drive such a car with gasoline after the conversion.

Assume that you have choosen to convert the engine via the injector swap you will pick up another problem: It's nearly impossible to get the engine fired up with the first attempt, most engines need up to four attemps to start.

If the injector recommendations are not match your needs you can have a look at my documents site; there you can find injector flow ratings and vehicle lists from Bosch.

There is also another way to increase fuel delivery to the engine, Below is a list which makes it easy to calculate the level of fuel pressure to get a certain flowrate:

Based on the article: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=92594

Bernoulli's law: p = .5 * rho * velocity^2
Increase the pressure with factor x, the velocity increases with x^0.5.
Velocity * area = volume flow.
Doubling the pressure will give 2^0.5 = 1.41 times as much fuel. Theoretically.

Raise pressure    factor    % more flow
3bar -> 2.50bar    0.83      0.919
3bar -> 3.00bar    1.00      1.000
3bar -> 3.50bar    1.17      1.081
3bar -> 3.75bar    1.25      1.118
3bar -> 4.00bar    1.33      1.153
3bar -> 4.25bar    1.42      1.191
3bar -> 4.50bar    1.50      1.224
3bar -> 4.75bar    1.58      1.256
3bar -> 5.00bar    1.67      1.292

Now, what flow has a B230FT injector with gasoline or E85 at 4.25bar?

The B230FT injector 0280 150 804 has a heptan flow from 234g/min@3bar.
We convert the heptan flow to gasoline: 234g/min /0.75 = 312cc/min with gasoline.
Now we take the multiplier from above (4.25bar is 1.191): 312* 1.191 = 372cc/min@4.25bar

That's not pretty difficult to calculate, isn't it?

So, i've told you all what you need to start, but if you have a little bit more time you should read this article:

Converting your Volvo to use E85 - from Fredrik Persson / Recommended Reading!

Known problems with Bio-Ethanol E85

I have dismantled a range of engines which run E85, everywhere the same picture!

It seems not to be the Bio-Ethanol itself, the gunk comes from the rest of 15% gasoline in the E85. Someone has given this gunk to a laboratory and the gunk seems to be carbon (i have read this somewhere). If you shut down the engine the rest of the gasoline which is in the inlet channel, at the inlet valve and as a drop at the injection valve will be 'converted' into this gunk. It looks like the gunk is more at the hot spots in the engine, because on my engine cyl. n.1 has less gunk, n.4 has pretty much of it.

I think that the additives for E85 must be reformulated to match the needs of E85. In the meantime i will check how much gasoline i have to mix with E85 to get enough additives to have a clean engine.





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Standard engines
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