Tuning Stages home

HOWTO: Making your RedBlock go fast :)


My goal was to get as much out of a B230 redblock as it's maintainable, so that the engine is still usable as a daily driver and will be fine for 100Tkm and more. We begin with the so called Stage0, everybody knows what this means: Check your car and repair/maintain everything which seems not to be ok and in good working condition!

Level1:

This is the first stage which generates more power. Have a look for a 200 cell metal catalytic converter. There are a few on the market with E-control stamp, which you can drive without having trouble with your local authority. You can combine it with a sport flow exhaust system e.g. the BSR-System which gives you a lower back pressure, both together gives you 15HP over stock.

Level2:

Increase the boost. There are several sytems on the market, which will help you to increase boost: The most popular sytem in europe was the original 'Turbo-Plus KIT' from Volvo. This Kit increases boost up to 0.9bar if the engine runs under WOT and revs more than 3850rpm. This Kit has a simple build-in security feature: if the engine knocks, the kit lowers the boost to stock values. There are other systems on the market like the Saab APC-System, several Dawes-Devices or the SeBCON which is developed by myself. Increase the boost to 0.9bar gives you 25HP over stock.

Level3:

Have a look for a good set of tuning chips for your LH2.4 system and make your EZK chipable (see my 'Electronic Mods' side). BSR in Sweden has good tuning chips, such a chip will give you ~10HP and ~20NM over stock. You can also have a look at my 'Chips For Redblocks' side, there you will find chips for LH 2.4 and EZK-116 which has more power output then the BSR-Chips.

With the levels 1, 2 and 3 you will achieve 210-220HP and up to 330NM.

Level4:

Search for a 012 AMM from a 91-94 Volvo 960 and a set of 440cc/min injectors (Greentops) or a modified LH-Binary, this modification will set the fuel-cut to a higher level.

Level5:

Turbo Upgrade, recommendable updates are Volvos 15G or better the old T3 Turbo 42.48A/R from the B230FT with LH2.2 System, combined with +90 manifold

Level6:

Have a look for a good 'street-cam'. The prefered cam would be the Volvo A or the VX3 cam, if it should be a little bit more than search for a V cam. A friend means, "... spend less money and install a V cam, and nearly have the world by the ass. IF the step up from the T to the A is 'one step', then the step up from the A to the V is more than 'two steps'....as a comparison" - I can confirm this :) A Level5 equipped Brick is quicker than most of the other cars on the road, especially better than all this damm good turbo-diesel's nowadays :)

Level7:

There are several bigger intercooler at the market which will help to get intake temperature down, that's your main insurance against knock problems and it gains up to 10-20HP depending on the size of the new intercooler.

Level8:

Convert your engine for the use of Bio-Ethanol E85. Since Bio-Ethanol has much better cooling abilities and also a much higher octane rating from 106octane it's pretty easy to squeeze out some extra horsepower out of the engine. If you have already done the Level7 modification, then go for a set of Siemens 60's 107961 fuel injectors with 630cc/min or take a modified LH-Binary.

- Fuel injectors Siemens DEKA 1, also known as Siemens 55's, 587cc/min@3bar, pencil spray-pattern
- Fuel injectors Siemens 107961, also known as Siemens 60's, 630cc/min@3bar, 4-Beam spray-pattern


Level9:

Think about a water injection system. If there is no possibility to go with E85, maybe a water injection system will help to gather the extra horsepower.

Level10:

Good engines are now above 250HP. With the T3/15G it's possible that you reach the '300HP area', but this marks the limit of the 'small' T3/15G. If you look for more power you need e.g. a T3/T4 hybrid turbo with a 50trim. To go further you have to look for a 'better' engine management like the 'Megasquirt' or 'Trijekt' Engine Management. This means not that the LH-Jetronic system is bad at all, in my opinion it's a pretty good system which can be adjusted very well! The point is, that the LH-System is air-mass-limited for this power-range because you need a 4" MAF to get workable values, but with a MAF of this size you will suffer from a bad drivability.
top