HOWTO: Making your RedBlock go fast :)
My goal was to get as much out of a B230 redblock as it's maintainable, so that the engine is still usable as a daily driver and will be fine for 100Tkm and more. We begin with the so called Stage0, everybody knows what this means: Check your car and repair/maintain everything which seems not to be ok and in good working condition!
Level1:This is the first stage which generates more power. Have a look for a 200 cell metal catalytic converter. There are a few on the market with E-control stamp, which you can drive without having trouble with your local authority. You can combine it with a sport flow exhaust system e.g. the BSR-System which gives you a lower back pressure, both together gives you 15HP over stock.
Level2:Increase the boost. There are several sytems on the market, which will help you to increase boost: The most popular sytem in europe was the original 'Turbo-Plus KIT' from Volvo. This Kit increases boost up to 0.9bar if the engine runs under WOT and revs more than 3850rpm. This Kit has a simple build-in security feature: if the engine knocks, the kit lowers the boost to stock values. There are other systems on the market like the Saab APC-System, several Dawes-Devices or the SeBCON which is developed by myself. Increase the boost to 0.9bar gives you 25HP over stock.
Level3:Have a look for a good set of tuning chips for your LH2.4 system and make your EZK chipable (see my 'Electronic Mods' side). BSR in Sweden has good tuning chips, such a chip will give you ~10HP and ~20NM over stock. You can also have a look at my 'Chips For Redblocks' side, there you also get chips for the LH 2.4 and EZK-116 systems, which have a higher performance than the BSR chips. My chips are probably the best chips available for daily drivers and they are a perfect match for the Sebcon Boost controllers.
With the levels 1, 2 and 3 you will achieve 210-220HP and up to 330NM.
Level4:Search for a 012 AMM from a 91-94 Volvo 960 and a set of 440cc/min injectors (Greentops) or a modified LH-Binary, this modification will set the fuel-cut to a higher level.
Level5:Turbo Upgrade, recommendable updates are Volvos 15G or better the old T3 Turbo 42.48A/R from the B230FT with LH2.2 System, combined with +90 manifold
Level6:Have a look for a good 'street-cam'. The prefered cam would be the Volvo A or the VX3 cam, if it should be a little bit more than search for a V cam. A friend means, "... spend less money and install a V cam, and nearly have the world by the ass. IF the step up from the T to the A is 'one step', then the step up from the A to the V is more than 'two steps'....as a comparison" - I can confirm this :) A Level5 equipped Brick is quicker than most of the other cars on the road, especially better than all this damm good turbo-diesel's nowadays :)
Level7:There are several bigger intercooler at the market which will help to get intake temperature down, that's your main insurance against knock problems and it gains up to 10-20HP depending on the size of the new intercooler.
Level8:Convert your engine for the use of Bio-Ethanol E85. Since Bio-Ethanol has much better cooling abilities and also a much higher octane rating from 106octane it's pretty easy to squeeze out some extra horsepower out of the engine. If you have already done the Level7 modification, then go for a set of Siemens 60's 107961 fuel injectors with 630cc/min or take a modified LH-Binary.
- Fuel injectors Siemens DEKA 1, also known as Siemens 55's, 587cc/min@3bar, pencil spray-pattern
- Fuel injectors Siemens 107961, also known as Siemens 60's, 630cc/min@3bar, 4-Beam spray-pattern